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What is azelaic acid?
Azelaic acid, which is a highly effective supportive product in solving skin problems with long-term and regular use, is actually a compound found naturally in grains such as wheat, barley, and rye. Azelaic acid can be used in various areas, including acne, skin blemishes, and darkening in certain areas of the body. It can be applied to affected areas in the form of foam, gel, or cream.
Azelaic acid, which is widely used in dermatology, is often preferred because it is non-irritating and helps treat acne-prone skin. This compound, which is naturally found in grains, becomes ready for use after being subjected to various processes in a laboratory environment. Although this form of azelaic acid is chemically very similar to its natural version, the synthetic form is preferred in skin care products because it offers higher purity, consistency, and stability.
Unlike acids that focus on removing dead skin cells, azelaic acid works deep within the skin cells to promote cell renewal, cleanse pores, and reduce inflammation. The azelaic acid content in commercially available products, from prescription formulas to over-the-counter concentrations, can range from 10% to 20%.
What is azelaic acid used for?
Azelaic acid is widely used in the treatment of various skin problems and has a wide range of applications. Accelerating skin cell renewal, treating acne, reducing inflammation, treating skin blemishes, eliminating redness, and lightening dark skin spots are just a few of the areas where azelaic acid is used.
The most common uses of azelaic acid are as follows:
- Acne treatment: Azelaic acid helps prevent the formation and growth of bacteria that cause acne and cleanses pores with its antibacterial properties. It also reduces inflammation with its anti-inflammatory effect.
- Rosacea treatment: It targets skin inflammation and reduces redness and visible blood vessels often associated with rosacea.
- Hyperpigmentation: Azelaic acid helps reduce dark spots and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation by inhibiting tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in melanin production. Melanin is a pigment known for its skin-darkening effect in areas where it is concentrated.
- Skin texture irregularities: Regular use can help improve the skin’s surface, reduce the appearance of rough areas, and tighten pores.
- Uneven skin tone: Its brightening and anti-inflammatory properties contribute to a more even and radiant skin tone.
When all these properties are considered together, azelaic acid is a product that can be very beneficial for your skin health. Thanks to its gentle nature, azelaic acid can often be used in combination with other treatments such as retinoids or antibiotics. This allows people with multiple skin concerns, such as acne, pigmentation, and inflammation, to treat these affected areas simultaneously and create a more comprehensive skincare routine.
Can azelaic acid be used to lighten skin tone?
The primary use of azelaic acid is not to lighten skin tone. However, by regulating melanin production, it can help reduce darkening in areas such as the underarms and remove dark spots, sun spots, and acne scars.
Azelaic acid’s ability to inhibit melanin production helps the dark colors in these discolored areas fade gradually and create a more even skin tone. However, azelaic acid does not lighten the skin beyond its natural tone. It is highly effective in addressing color unevenness in affected areas. Those with darker skin tones particularly prefer azelaic acid, as its tone-evening effect on darkened and affected areas is less likely to cause light spots.
How is azelaic acid used?
Azelaic acid is usually applied topically in the form of a gel, cream, or foam and used as part of a regular skin care routine. Depending on your skin type and the problem you are trying to address, it is important to determine the appropriate form, frequency, and duration of use. A dermatologist is the best person to guide you on these matters. Your dermatologist will advise you on how to use the product and whether it should be combined with other products.
The product should always be applied to clean, dry skin. Depending on the formulation, it can be used once or twice a day. However, it is recommended to start with small amounts.
Some general tips for incorporating azelaic acid into your skincare routine:
- First, cleanse your skin with a gentle, non-drying cleanser.
- Wait for your cleansed skin to dry completely.
- Apply azelaic acid to the affected areas in a thin layer.
- If using on the face, remember to avoid the eye and mouth areas.
- If using to prevent dryness or irritation, apply a moisturizer after the azelaic acid has completely dried.
- Use a high SPF sunscreen during the day, as otherwise the effectiveness of the treatment may decrease and more color changes may occur.
Although azelaic acid is considered a very safe product, it is advisable for first-time users to start with small amounts and at wide intervals. For example, it is more appropriate to begin with once daily in small amounts and then gradually increase the frequency and amount with caution.
How often should azelaic acid be used?
The frequency of azelaic acid use depends on its concentration and how your skin reacts to it. Over-the-counter products (typically containing 10% azelaic acid) are generally mild enough for daily use and can sometimes be used twice a day. However, prescription-strength formulas (15-20%) may be recommended once daily or every other day, especially at the start.
Individuals with sensitive skin or those using multiple active ingredients (such as retinoids or exfoliating acids) may want to limit azelaic acid use to a few times a week to prevent excessive skin irritation. Since everyone’s skin is different, you should also monitor how your skin reacts to use. If you notice excessive dryness, peeling, or irritation, it is recommended that you reduce the frequency of use.
What are the side effects of azelaic acid?
Although most skin types tolerate azelaic acid well, and it is safe to use, azelaic acid’s use on sensitive skin should be monitored closely. As with other topical treatments, azelaic acid may cause side effects on sensitive skin, especially when first used. These side effects are mostly mild and temporary reactions. The possible side effects of azelaic acid are listed below.
- Mild stinging or burning sensation, especially during the first few uses
- Dryness or flaking, especially in cold climates or when used in combination with other drying treatments
- Itching or tingling, usually as the skin becomes accustomed to the product
- Redness or irritation, more likely at higher concentrations or with excessive use
- In very rare cases, allergic reactions such as swelling or hives may occur. If severe irritation or allergic reaction symptoms appear, discontinue use and consult a dermatologist.
To minimize side effects, it is important to perform a patch test on a small area of your body before fully incorporating azelaic acid into your skincare routine. If you do not experience any problems after the patch test, it is safer to start using the product.